Tag Archives: all undone

Diving into All Undone – An interview with the designer

3 Nov
Recently lingerie blogosphere has been raving about a new DD+ brand on the market: All Undone Lingerie. After crying over the lack of sexiness in DD+ world it felt like my prayers were answered in a very effective pleasant way. This brand is something completely new; graphic designs with a sexy edge and amazing luxury feel to it. Now that the brand has launched their e-commerce site and first line with a size range of 28-34 DD-GG I would like to introduce the brand properly to you with an interview with the wonder woman behind the brand and its designs, Eva Philipps. Here we go…
 
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First I would like to know a little bit about you as a designer; what is your fashion/lingerie background and how has it affected you as a lingerie designer?
-I’d been interested in design since I was a child, I completely loved Karl Lagerfeld (not the normal 10 year old obsession) and growing up was lucky enough to access a collection of amazing clothes thanks to my huge family of women never throwing any of their clothes away, everything from 1920’s flapper dresses, 1960’s couture and 1980’s bomber jackets. Having worked at creative agencies in the Advertising industry for a number of years I decided to follow my dream of creating a fashion-led lingerie label for the smaller band, larger cup sizes. This meant attending courses at the University of the Arts, London but really I concentrated on getting hands on experience as didn’t want to get bogged down by too much theory. I work well on instinct and the hands on experience was invaluable, having fitted many differently shaped women into very different lingerie, you learn to see what works practically and common likes and dislikes. I also work with a duo of technical experts who’ve been in the industry for over 50 years between them and so have learnt a huge amount from them too.
 
Why did you decide to create your own lingerie brand?
-It was something I’d dreamed of doing for years. I’d been frustrated at the offering of fashionable underwear in the UK since the late ’90’s and particularly for the DD+ sizes. I’d always been interested in fashion and design, and this idea had been bubbling for over a decade.
 
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 Where did you draw inspiration to your first collection?
-I was inspired by lots of things which all melted together, I wanted a strong graphic look and knew that a clean, not overly fussy aesthetic would be at the heart of the brand. Colours wise I was heavily inspired by fabrics of vintage gowns I’d inherited from my grandmothers, the silks were so heavy and in colours with so much depth. The clean lines of the collections draw inspiration from the sports luxe styles on the runway and even influenced by smooth modern architectural lines in buildings like Getty Centre and Guggenheim.
 
How has your unique aesthetics been received in the lingerie industry? 
We’ve had such a terrific response. We wanted to offer something very different to what’s out there and it’s fantastic to be recognised for that. We’re already stocked in the UK, and Australia and will be in the USA for the next season too!
 
Your first collection consists of three different lines. Have you thought of making some/one of them a continuity line or do you plan to create a whole new collection for each season?
-Yes, we have kept The Mai (ivory and liqueur) for SS14 and we hope to continue with The DiDi for AW14. They’ve been so popular that we want to keep them for the future!
 
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What are the key ingredients of All Undone lingerie?
-We believe in the beauty of simplicity. If the foundations are right then everything else stays strong: our lines are smooth, our fabrics are beautiful and the craftsmanship is quality. All with a large sprinkling of sass!
 
What part do the materials play in the design process?
-The materials play a large part, particularly as these bras must fit and feel beautiful as well as looking beautiful. The sheer mesh and matt materials were key to the base of the collections, and I couldn’t resist the luxury of silk.
 
Was it an obvious choice to create a lingerie brand for women with smaller backs and big breasts? Why / why not?
-Yes totally. Over the years the offering for sleek yet supportive lingerie in the smaller back, larger cup sizes has been limited. I didn’t think women should have to start throwing their style credentials out of the window when it came to their underwear.
 
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What have been the most fun and most challenging parts of starting your business and creating designs for the luxury full-bust market? 
-Gosh well there are lots of highs and obviously some frustrations. I guess the highs are having the vision and seeing it come together, this applies to the designs of the garments to the creation of the brand. It can be frustrating for a small designer as minimum quantity orders on things like materials can be prohibitive, and for the smaller band/larger cup some materials that are fine for smaller sizes just don’t work above a D cup. However the highs are great and now that we’ve launched, it’s fantastic to hear great comments back from customers who love the garments as much as we do.
 
What does the future hold for All Undone lingerie?
-It’s a very exciting time, we want to grow our offering to provide more shapes for more sizes, and one day perhaps even swimwear..!
 
 I would like to say many thanks to lovely Eva for doing this and can’t wait to try her designs on one day! My favourite would definitely be The Mai from AW13 collection but what makes a true winner is the yellow/ivory set from SS13. All Undone’s price range might be in the luxury category just like the designs and materials but I have no doubt that they will live up to the expectations of lingerie lovers. Have a great Sunday y’all, hope you enjoyed the post! 😉

Lingerie wishlist for AW13

22 Sep

Okay, so it’s starting to feel a lot like autumn here in Finland, with the rain and all, but I haven’t really talked to you guys about this season’s styles and trends yet, not to mentions my picks of the lot. There is actually a reason for this; as you may have read my post on the “sexiness” matter some of you might have guess that there is not much for me in the market at the moment. I still have drooled over a few items, so here is my AW wishlist (luckily my birthday and Christmas are still ahead of me!).

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All Undone – The Mai

Amazing set with a totally unique design and aesthetics. There is only thing that’ll stop me from snatching this set up when it’s released – the price. It’s not that it’s not worth it, it totally is, but I’m still a student and it seems like my financial situation is getting month by month even more depressing. So I hope it’s not gonna be a totally miserable season for reviews.. Well, anyways, if I happen to win a lottery or something this will be on the top of my shopping list!

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Gossard – Edina Body

Completely amazing, very quirky yet sexy. I absolutely adored this body from the moment I saw it and my desire for it grows each time I see pictures of it! This one is also a bit too pricey for me with its 69$ price tag but you never know, I just might get myself a sugar daddy 😀 Just kidding… 

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Love Claudette – Ouvert

Fantastic pattern with a naughty twist – cups that open at the front! I’m so glad that this set is also available to full-bust customers since the fun and the sexiness is definitely needed.

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…Aaand then everything from the new Tutti Rouge collection. Well, not EVERYTHING but like most of them. At least I need to buy a new Betty in red to save my old one from dying (its elastic has already started to suffer after some hardcore wearing).

I was a bit disappointed in this season styles from the Eveden Group and Panache. Especially Cleo by Panache has always been my precious one and this time it feels like it’s cheating on me by being.. Well, a bit boring. I love how Cleo has been offering a lot of colourful quirky styles but this season all the colour combos and prints felt a bit outdated, too weird or smudgy (can I even use that word?). So, onto the next season Cleo and we’ll see you again.

Also my past favourite Curvy Kate let me down this autumn. I saw both their AW13 and SS14 collections and felt immediately like wanting to skip the winter (which I’m btw gonna do by leaving Finland for three months). Their SS14 collection was super-colourful with amazing prints etc so I’m kinda sat to skip their AW13 collection all together… I would definitely consider trying on eg the new Starlet but that is about it. Sorry CK, I’m gonna take a break from our love affair for a while.

What I will try out this season instead are some new-to-me brands, mostly Polish ones. I definitely want to see what the fuzz is all about and expand my knowledge to other than British brands. I love how Miss Underpinnings has presented a lot of Polish brands after her trip to full-bust promised land and can’t wait to try some of those gorgeous pieces on. Image

I’m really tempted to try on some Ewa Michalak stuff after her recent FB releases. I mean, that shit’s brilliant. Pure gems after gems, I’ll probably end up wanting them all even though I swore on my mother’s life I’ll never buy anything from her. Damn you, EM.

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Also another Polish designer on my get-to-know list; Ewa Bien. Love their autumn collection!

Sooo, that was about it for today and I’ll see you next week! What would you like to try out this season? Any new brands, colours, styles? Let me know in the comments!

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